The magic of the Royal Palace of Caserta (Reggia di Caserta)

Italy holds the record for the most UNESCO heritage sites in the world, and we are here today to present one of the most famous, the Royal Palace of Caserta.

The Royal Palace of Caserta (Reggia di Caserta) is a former royal residence in Caserta, Southern Italy, builded by the House of Bourbon-Swo Sicilies as their main residence as kings of Naples It is the largest palace erected in Europe during the 18th century.

The construction of the palace began in 1752 for Charles VII of Naples (Charles III of Spain), who worked closely with his architect,Luigi Vanvitelli.

The political and social model for Vanvitelli's palace was Versailles.

 Like its French predecessor, the palace was intended to display the power and grandeur of an absolute Bourbon monarchy.

The Reggia has 5 floors, 1,200 rooms, 1742 windows, 34 staircases, 1026 fireplaces, a large library, and a theatre, modelled after the Teatro San Carlo of Naples.

The Reggia is by far the largest royal palace resulting from a single original project in the world in terms of volume with more than 1 million cubic metres (40 million cubic feet).

Of all the royal residences inspired by the Palace of Versailles, the Reggia of Caserta is the one that bears the greatest resemblance to the original model: the unbroken balustraded skyline and the slight break provided by pavilions within the long, somewhat monotonous façade. As at Versailles, a large aqueduct was required to bring water for the prodigious water displays.

The garden, a typical example of the baroque extension of formal vistas, stretches for 120 ha, partly on hilly terrain. It is also inspired by the park of Versailles. The park starts from the back façade of the palace, flanking a long alley with artificial fountains and cascades. 

The fountains and cascades, each filling a vasca (basin), with architecture and hydraulics by Luigi Vanvitelli at intervals along a wide straight canal that runs to the horizon, 

A large number of figures from classical Antiquity were modelled by Gaetano Salomone for the gardens of the Reggia, and executed by large workshops.

In 1997, the palace was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site; its nomination described it as "the swan song” of the spectacular art of the Baroque, from which it adopted all the features needed to create the illusions of multidirectional space.

With this article, we have started a cultural journey that, over time, will lead us to explore the rich and magnificent historical-artistic heritage of this wonderful country, Italy.

Stella and Peppe, the truffle hunters

At the first light of dawn the smell of coffee intoxicates the air of the whole house, while outside the humidity of the night still pervades the air making it pleasantly sparkling, Stella, a little white Lagotto, inside her own " house ” is there waiting quivering and the call arrives on time as every autumn morning.

We are in the heart of the central Apennines and more precisely in a small, enchanting Abruzzo valley, ready to go hunting for the King, the Tuber Magnatum Pico or more simply the White Truffle.

The typical day of a truffle hunter starts very early in the morning and after a fleeting breakfast, the dog is loaded into the car and heads to what the hunter considers places worth exploring, places kept secret even by the most trusted friends.

After a few minutes of driving, we arrived at one of these places and Stella, always eager to start, anxiously awaits the opening of the tailgate to finally be able to start her favorite game, the treasure hunt.

On these autumn mornings going to the woods gives unique emotions: the leaves of the trees are tinged with yellow, red and orange and nature is full of magic and beauty, you can admire the foliage, the phenomenon for which plants they are coloured and the landscapes are transformed into a coloured palette.

The carpet of multicoloured leaves, which covers the ground, caressed by the morning dew, is a delight for the eyes and the soul.

The scents of the forest are more intense and warm, the scent of mushrooms, which grow luxuriantly, alone or in families in the shade of chestnut and oak trees, the smell of moss which, with its intense green color enriches the color palette autumn in the undergrowth and then there are chestnuts, https://www.gpourplanet.com/blog/2020/12/1/the-chestnut-queen-of-the-apennines, undisputed queens of this area.

It is within this romantic canvas that the search for the Tuber Magnatum takes place, a magical place, which seems to escape our human understanding, with its slow times, marked by long pauses, interrupted only by the sounds of Nature, the chirping of the birds, the sound of the streams, the light breath of the morning breeze; spectators of a unique show.

The relationship between the two interpreters of this story, Stella and Peppe, is deeply empathetic. The two have a dense and close dialogue and beyond words, they speak with gestures and looks. Often the dog advances running, anticipating the human steps that advance in the damp and leafy ground; he turns back, struggles, but never loses sight of his companion. They never go away, like precious gifts for each other.

Intrigued by the scent that comes from the ground, crosses the leaves, Stella begins to compulsively dig, waiting for the arrival of the companion which in turn, begins to dig around the truffle, first with his bare hands and then with the Vanghino, always with delicacy and decision, until he frees him.

Peppe, with dirty hands cuddles Stella for the excellent work, caressing her and offering her biscuits, a ritual that is repeated every time a truffle is found.

Truffles grow a few inches down in the earth, in symbiosis with the roots of hardwood trees like oaks, chestnut, hazelnut and hornbeam.

The research goes on for most of the morning, “beating” different places, most of the times bristly and thorny, but always with the enthralling enthusiasm of Stella that animates this game.

The white truffle must awaken something primal in those who eat it, the Truffles are the true fruit of the earth, more rare and precious than any other edible root, tuber or mushroom. There is no other flavour like them on earth, which is perhaps why they are so often described as heavenly.

Definitely, tasting the white truffle on a delicious dish is an unforgettable experience but, looking for it is simply a unique experience.

The chestnut, the Queen of the Apennines.

Autumn is not a season but a state of mind, the highest magic that nature can express in its circularity, and in this palette of colours, chestnut reigns, the Queen of this territory during the autumn season.

The chestnut is the undisputed symbol of autumn, with its brown color and its scent when roasted and its unmistakable flavour, in short, a real feast for the senses!

At the height of the chestnut season, the entire territory comes alive in the collection of the latest delicacies that the forest grants before the silent winter arrives. When the days are still warmed by the tender autumn sun and the forest is filled with intense colours and scents, immersing yourself in nature is the most relaxing and intoxicating thing that nature can offer us.

In the past, the arrival of autumn brought great excitement in families, throughout the year the undergrowth was kept clean, where there was a chestnut tree, the soil was cleared of weeds and carefully mowed. The wood had to be in place to be able to collect the fallen chestnuts, the harvest began between the end of September and the first week of October and continued until November; it was a job that was done in the family, by hand, collecting them in baskets and wicker baskets.

Each family collected chestnuts in the woods, no one collected those in the property of others, but after the large harvest, the woods were made available to all those who did not have a wood where they could collect them.

The collection was done several times a day, the boys went to collect before going to school and continued on their return; today chestnuts are harvested with the help of nets, especially in modern intensive fruit chestnut groves or even through mechanical harvesting with vacuum cleaners and harvesters but not in this place, where the tradition where the tradition of manual harvesting are still alive despite the difficulties.

Once the daily harvest is finished, the selection process begins, the bad chestnuts are completely discarded while the smaller ones are set aside and sold at lower prices.

Fortunately, after years of suffering, due to poor harvesting, due to a killer-insect, the chestnut gall wasp, the chestnut groves have returned to produce an important quantity of fruit of excellent quality.

However, the problems are certainly not lacking, the depopulation of inland areas, with masses of the population, mostly young people who move to the cities, has taken away labor from the collection, and this leads the older generations to additional efforts or, in alternative, foreign labor.

A legend tells that in a mountain forest where, next to a huge tree full of chestnuts, lived a family of hedgehogs made up of mum, dad and their children. Daily a group of hungry squirrels approached the tree to eat its fruits, but one day, the little family thought about taking a walk in the woods and, hearing many complaints, curiously approached the tree to see what was happening. He noticed that the chestnuts were complaining because those spiteful inhabitants ate them. Together, then, they came up with a nice plan: when the squirrels arrived, the chestnuts would hide inside the hedgehogs. So they did and, since then, the small rodents, stinging each other, never came near the chestnuts and they, to protect themselves, kept their husk.

The chestnut plays an important role in this territory as well as in many hilly and mountain areas of Italy, not only for the production of fruit and wood, but also for the protection of the territory and for the protection of the environmental and hydrogeological structure.

Traveling in an original way, beyond the usual destinations, with a spirit of discovery, allows you to find unexpected surprises: places, stories and flavours of inestimable value.

This little journey that focuses on chestnut is intended as an original, different proposal, an opportunity to get to know territories rich in history, nature and culture.

Getting lost in the beauty of these centuries-old woods makes us feel the sweetness and grandeur of Nature.